"DESTINATION WEDDING "@ NEWCASTLE UPON TYNE

"Destination Wedding"

@

Newcastle Upon Tyne 

Newcastle Upon Tyne! Such a long elaborate name for a city! It just indicates that the city is situated on the banks of the river Tyne. Popularly though, it is plainly referred to as just Newcastle. The train schedules display only 'Newcastle ' in most places and Google Maps will accept the word 'Newcastle' and indicate the right co-ordinates. Anyway, I was travelling to Newcastle Upon Tyne to participate in the Wedding ceremony of a dear one.I was making these travel plans for quite a while and as the days were passing by and the D-Day was approaching, my excitement was increasing. Finally on a Thursday evening in the month of May I took the train to Newcastle from King's Cross station London. I  was accompanied by my family and I was going to meet dear friends and family there at the Wedding Ceremony.

        From London to Newcastle it was a pleasant journey by train. The train was a fast train and the distance of 398 km took about 3 hours. The fun thing about travelling by train is that one can get an idea of the terrain and landscape. This eastern side of the British Isles is pretty much  flat land. Time passed by very easily during this journey, with the beautiful green landscape gliding past. I was sitting comfortably in the coach with a cup of hot chocolate in my hand. The train had a well stocked pantry but the seat service was not available on that day. We had to get our snacks from the pantry, that was two coaches away from ours. The view from the wide window was great. The sun was shining and the fields were green.The farmlands, small tidy villages and towns gliding past gave a very comfortable feeling. The occasional grazing sheep, herd of cows and grazing horses added to this beautiful picture. We reached Newcastle Central Railway Station at 9:30pm and a very clear blue sky greeted us as we walked out of the station. It was windy and definitely colder than London. We could see at the station itself that the population density of Newcastle is much lower than that of London. Though the sun would have disappeared below the horizon at this time of the evening / night , the sun's rays were there to give a lovely blue sky. We could see the silhouette of the church steeple against the twilight sky. 

The train (LNER)from London to Newcastle
@ the Central Station

Silhouette of the church steeple at 9:30pm

        We were wrapped up in cap and coat and well protected against the cold wind. We took a cab to Holiday Inn (the hotel where we stayed during this trip).It was late and all shops and eateries had closed. Even the hotel bar and restaurant was closing for the night. Only room service was available for the night. We ordered "pasta" and "fish and chips". I wanted the traditional "fish and chips ", made famous from this part of the world. After a while our dinner arrived , served in a huge tray with large porcelain plates and bowls covered with dome shaped steel covers. I was pleased with the neat and clean arrangement of the tray. I removed the steel cover with aplomb and instantly my stomach churned and I lost my appetite. The fish fillets were wrapped in newspaper.! How could they be so unhygenic?  Should I eat out of those dirty pages? My travel mate put me at ease ,saying that this was the traditional and authentic look of " Fish & Chips" , served by many restaurants. The wrapping paper perhaps is grease paper with a 'newspaper  / magazine page' look. After all , this dish was the ordinary English folks' food. The newspaper was like a blotting paper absorbing the oil. Later I learnt that this practice of newspaper wrapping went on till the 1980s, when it was realized that  the print ink was a harmful chemical. The practice stopped after it became general knowledge that print ink was not a great idea with food. 

       We quickly finished dinner and went to bed .The sun rises early during this time of the year and I wanted to be up early to make maximum use of the day light. So for the next day's activities,  the two target destinations were the Newcastle Castle and the wedding venue (Jesmond Dene House). Our friends from other parts of Europe had already arrived in the city and were stationed at a nearby hotel. Some of us chose to be at the wedding venue in the morning itself , some of us remained at the hotel to catch up on sleep and finally four of us went sight seeing .The Newcastle Castle was not far away from the hotel.We could have walked in the sunshine but we took the local train to and from the castle in order to be back at the hotel by afternoon  , to freshen up and dress up for the Wedding Ceremony.

The Black Gate --
Part of the Castle

Newcastle Castle -
The Keep/The Great Tower

      The Castle is a medevial fortress and originally occupied a large area, with The Black Gate, a chapel, The Keep or the Great Tower, The Bailey, Postern Gate, tall walls and a Moat. Very little of this remains. The original destruction I believe began during the pioneering building of locomotives and railway systems and then later the industrial revolution itself. Now only The Keep(Great Tower) and The Black Gate remains. So the remanants of the old castle is not very asthetically appealing, but I can definitely appreciate the difficult work ( keeping the cold harsh weather in mind) that the people of the 11th &12th century put in , to build this very thick stone walled fortress.We paid 10 pounds per person to explore The Keep and The Black Gate. We first walked up the narrow , spiral ,stone stair case right up to the roof. My younger companions went up fast and I trudged up slowly holding the thick stone walls for support and also stopping on the way to glimpse outside, through the slit windows of the tower. From the roof  one gets a sweeping view of the cityscape. No high rise buildings are seen for as far as the eye can see. The only modern architecture that caught my eye was the wavy dome structure of the "Sage Gateshead". The citizens have preserved the old and ancient heritage buildings very well. The modern multi-storied buildings were few and far between and they definitely do not dominate the skyline. I could see the river Tyne and could spot three of the seven bridges that are built over this river. I got a clear arial view of the  largest railway intersection in the country called the "diamond crossing". This looked a lot like the railway stations and junctions in the Indian Subcontinent. Not surprising though, because the British had invented the steam engine and they initiated the railway network in the subcontinent. So they almost replicated the railway system that existed in their country and till today in the Indian subcontinent the same architecture persists.

At the top of the Great Tower

The spiral stairs of
the Great Tower

Criss-Crossing railway tracks and arched roof of the station.

Two bridges over the river Tyne and the wavy structure of "Sage Gateshead". Seven Bridges cross the river Tyne------

(1).Gateshead Millennium Bridge (2001) .(2). New Tyne Bridge (1928). (3). Swing Bridge (1876). (4). High level Bridge (1849). (5). Queen Elizabeth Metro Bridge (1980). (6). King Edward VII Railway Bridge (1906). (7). Redheugh Road Bridge (1983).

The castle has four floors inluding the ground floor. We walked down to each floor while coming down from the roof , and explored each floor.The castle is seeped in history and all this is displayed on the walls through posters , large framed pictures and writings. On display are also, artefacts and antique objects like wooden chairs and tables, armours , knight's uniforms, swords, shields , metal gloves and more. This site has been important since the Roman times and the castle has been built and rebuilt over the centuries. The Black Gate was the last to be added to this fortress somewhere in the 13th century. This region is the borderland between Scotland and England. There was fearsome rivalry between these two kingdoms in the Middle Ages and there were series of battles that carried on for three centuries. Therefore this lawless region needed a fortified complex. The castle was not only a fortress for the garrisons during the ages gone by but also short term residence for kings, nobles, lords and ladies. Newcastle castle was also a centre of law and order. Those accused of crime were imprisoned here awaiting trial and there are plenty of witchery and witch craft stories associated with this castle. The ground floor had a dungeon  and a royal chapel. Since the Normans also ruled these borderlands, they have left their mark in the architecture. The arches on the ceiling here is the finest  surviving example of Norman decorative stone carving in England. 

        The Keep has a central hall that could be seen from each of the floors. It is impressive looking with its stark and bare decor. It has  wooden flooring and a solitary throne like wooden chair. History of this region is written all over the stone walls ( in the form of posters framed pictures and long drape like hangings) . History of the Anglo-Norman landlords, brave service men, powerful local politicians, Anglo-Saxon noble families etc.etc.etc.   We then , walked over to the Black Gate and explored the nooks and corners of the structure made in stone and wood. I don't think the Black Gate is called so because the walls have black patches that look like dirt or soot or moss covered. The blackening is in the grain of the stone and I learnt later that it was caused due to the large industries that grew here. This blackening cannot be treated by modern chemicals without disintegrating the stones. Therfore they have been left as it is. Quite a few of the monuments ( including churches) of this era have been blackened in this way. I could get a sense that this place was the hub of activity over the centuries and the castle was used for various purposes over the ages. So naturally a town and then a city grew around it. The city of "Newcastle" is named so, as a tribute to this monument.

Central Hall of "The Keep"(Great Tower) as
seen from the 3rd floor of "The Keep".

Central Hall of "The Keep" with a solitary
wooden chair. As seen from the 1st floor of
"The Keep".

Arches supporting the ceiling-Norman style of
stone-cut designs.
A soldier's armour.

This is thought to be a part of the
Royal Chapel.

    We wandered around the streets, admired the Newcastle Cathedral, went by Mosley street and Grey street, admiring the well preserved old Georgian/ Victorian buildings. It was past 12 O'clock so we hurried back to our respective hotels , to dressup for the wedding, scheduled to begin at 4pm.

      We reached Jesmond Dene House around 3 pm. The weather was perfect this summer day. The sky was a clear blue and the sun was shining. This place is luxurious and set in a leafy valley and parkland setting. The property area was set in three levels of ground that was well manicured and maintained. This Georgian building looked like a fairy tale manor  in the English country side, and straight out of the "Jane Austen"novels. There is a wooded area with lovely walk paths threading through the green cover. The interiors of this Georgian house was luxurious, warm, cosy and stylish. I went in and was welcomed by the happy , cheerful and smiling bridegroom . He was dressed up formally in a three piece suit. The bride was still busy with the last minute touches to her "Lehenga" (a grand bridal apparel). So I thought I may as well explore the surroundings. 

     The grand house, from the outside , had ivy creeping up the stone walls and rose bushes growing over the arched entrance. There were quite a few other flowering creepers clinging to the walls , making the building  picture perfect. 

     I walked up the tree lined road, with a friend, whom I had met after a long time. The road took us through this path of peace and tranquility. We caught up on the lost time , exchanging our happy moments and difficult times and remembering the times when we were younger and had fewer responsibilities. We discussed our sorrows and joys, and the many shared memorable moments of our lives. I had this calm and contented feeling. Was it due to this walk through a magical and wonderful surrounding?

        We returned to the wedding venue in a short while and found that many guests had already gathered. I could see my other friend moving amongst the guests who had gathered there at the entrance of  Jesmond Dene House. Here we were three friends (whose association goes back a long way), together after a long time. It was definitely a moment to cherish. It should be stored in memory for posterity. So we took a few snapshots of us together in this very beautiful English " urban-countryside". 

Jesmond Dene House.

Chimney and clinging Ivy-Jesmond Dene House-Rose bush over Arch.
Georgian Architecture.

     We were ushered inside the building  to a warm and cosy room with a bar. There was champagne and a vaiety of other wine and drinks. We mingled with all and made new friends, while sipping on our favourite drink. There was a lot of laughter and chattering. Everybody was in high spirits. After sometime we were led into a very large hall where the formal marriage registration was to take place soon. The hall was nice with carved wood paneled walls,  a grand decorated fire place and lots of floral decorations specially for the wedding ceremony. We sat there a while after which the beautiful bride entered , walking slowly and carefully and managing the long flowing "lehenga" well. The bridegroom was already waiting there .Friends and family from the bride's side and also from the bridegroom's side were seated in the  hall , to witness the ceremony and  bless the couple. Live music was being played softly  and it created the right mood for the occassion. The couple took their vows. The vows expressed , were slightly unconventional but deinitely contemporary and relevant. The signing of papers by the couple and two witnesses (predetermined) was soon over and the marriage was registered formally. Now the evening was open for food, drinks, dance, enjoyment and merry making. The menu had a variety of dishes . It was a nice mix of cuisine from the Indian Subcontinent and  Europe. After this there was a photo session where we all posed around the couple in the garden area. Though many photographs were clicked later in the interiors, the professional photographers were making best use of the daylight hours that extends beyond 9pm. The rest of the evening was spent in dancing, cake cutting, talking and mingling with gay abandon. I do not know when the bride slipped out of view for a while . but there she was on the dance floor  , looking stunning in a flowing western styled gown. 

The Wedding hall with flowers and candles,
for the special occassion.

The Cake!

           

  

   The bride and bridegroom are Indians, but very comfortable in this English city. Their family and friends had gathered here from different parts of the world. The bride wore the eastern attire and western attire with equal ease. The bridegroom was absolutely comfortable in his western styled clothes. Everybody gathered here were dressed in a wide variety of attire, from different cultures. Everybody danced to tunes from the east and west with equal happiness. The food served, was a mix of the eastern dishes and western dishes. This was truly a global atmosphere and I can say that the couple are global citizens . At this juncture I felt that the famous saying , " the whole world is our home" is absolutely right.

Just Married Couple with
Friends & Family

The couple enjoying with All.

   After the whole day's activities I was tired and slept like a log. The next day I was absolutely fresh and energetic to go sight seeing with my friends. So three friends along with their family met at the Gateshead Millennium Bridge. This Bridge was opened in 2001 and is the recent most addition to the bridges over the river Tyne. It is a pedestrian and cyclist's bridge. This area called the Quayside is planned out very nicely. Clean new pavements, some fast food eateries with chairs and benches laid out in the open for all to enjoy the river view , sunshine and the breeze. People were walking their pets, taking a run or simply enoying the rivier side atmosphere. We walked over the Millennium bridge  and got a great frontal view of all the bridges across the Tyne. Here we saw a very attractive dog .The dog and its owner were walking across the bridge like us. It was a very large cuddly dog.We discussed the dog's breed with the owner, petted it and posed for photographs. None of us were in a hurry to do any sightseeing. We were just happy to be together. Two of my friends were completely lost in their discussions that was pending for so many years. They had to be reminded that we had come for sight seeing  and that we should decide on a tourist place of interest to all.  So we talked about the possible places that we could go to. There were few suggestions, possibility of returning back before night fall, travel by bus would be better or travel by train, should we have lunch before venturing out, would the weather turn hostile, would a thick jacket be sufficient or would a shawl be enough to keep the cold at bay , etc. etc. etc. We couldnot come to any conclusion, partly because most of us were just content being with each other and with  discussions only. When you are with friends and you know your family is around you  , even the mundane bridges over the river Tyne look grand and attractive. So I clicked a lot of photos. No one was particular about where we were going. So we just ambled along talking and laughing and prodding the two engrossed friends to walk a bit faster. In this way we visited the "Baltic Flour Mill" building. This building now houses the Baltic Centre for Contemporary Art. We visited the art gallery and then went up to the highest floor  to get a bird's eye view of the surroundings. "Sage Gateshead" was gleaming there below. Later we walked towards "The Sage" (named after one of its patrons). It is a music centre with stages that have excellent acoustic design. Though we did not go inside , I admired this modern iconic building with curving steel roof.

Gates Head Millennium Bridge

"The  Sage "from one end of the
 Millennium Bridge

Iconic Modern Architecture- The Sage

    We walked along the South bank of the Tyne, and crossed over the river , walking on another bridge and headed for the Newcastle Castle. We walked past the castle and then walked passed the Newcastle Cathedral and headed towards the Grainger Market. The walk wasn't direction oriented but was kind of random walk. The Grainger market is in the middle of the city and this area is a busy one. I admired the Georgian and Victorian buildings along the way. The market is a very popular place and is inside a well preserved heritage building. There are many small shops under one roof. Fast food of all types was available , ranging from Italian  , French and Chinese, to Indian. Some of us were thrilled to find "Samosas" and "Channa Bhatura"(tasty Indian dishes). I looked for sandwhiches that were warm and toasted. We spend a lot of time here happy to eat and chat. After this we walked through the area admiring the heritage buildings and monuments, until it was time for me to leave because I had to take the evening train to London. I did not feel like going. I wanted this time together with friends to extend. But then I had to say "au revoir". 

Column erected in 1838 to
commemorate the politician
Charles Earl Grey K.G.

Newcastle Cathedral

"Steadfast in life, valiant in Death"
(inscription at the base of monument)

Georgian / Victorian Buildings

Newcastle's iconic symbol
NEW TYNE BRIDGE.